Category Archives: Central America

A two-island oasis: Islas Tortugas, Costa Rica

May 2015 Once again, wind funneled north into the Golfo de Nicoya, directly on our nose, preventing us from making use of our sails. The sky was blue, however, and having friends aboard made motoring less bothersome and the day more beautiful. Leaving Little Jesus and the Cedars, our destination was Islas Tortugas, two islands […]
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A few days in the Golfo de Nicoya, CR

May 2015 We awoke in a state of near-giddiness on the 5th of May. In less than 24 hours, Mark and Helen, two of our dearest friends would have their flip flop-clad feet on Costa Rican soil. We weighed anchor, and began the final push to our rendezvous point in Puntarenas, a gritty commercial port […]
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Rolling in-n-out of Gringolandia + an impromptu overnight passage

May 2015 A few hours after we arrived in Playa del Coco, we dinghied to the beach, survived the surf landing, and got to the business of clearing back into Costa Rica. This time around, we were not rookies. We knew what to expect, and we managed to go through the process relatively quickly; half […]
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From Nica to Tica: The Red Thread Returns to Costa Rica

April 2015 We untied our dock lines and set out from Marina Puesta del Sol in the early afternoon of April 28th. The day was hot, 92° Fahrenheit to be exact. Four-foot seas rolled long and steady from the west southwest as we exited the estuary. Fourteen knots of westerly breeze filled our sails, and […]
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Grooving in Granada, Nicaragua

April 2015 The wide-open spaces alongside the highway began to populate with houses and shops. Buildings painted blue and orange and red began to imbue the countryside with color. Our bus rambled to a stop in a dimly lit, dodgy alley in the 500-year-old city of Granada. Neil, Tim, and I hoisted on our packs […]
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GUESTBOOK: A tale of two “boat”packing Brits by Tim & Emma

April 2015 For us, a true joy of traveling is the way our life becomes entwined with people we meet along the way. Tim and Emma, a couple of backpacking Brits, were an exceptionally delightful find and the nearest we’ve experienced to picking up hitchhikers on the high seas! I recently shared my account of […]
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Sampling the Pacific Ring of Fire: Two volcanoes in two days + Ep. 7 VIDEO

April 2015 We were seated at a long, worn table in the courtyard of a building 10 minutes from the center of Leon. Serving bowls of breakfast potatoes, eggs, and bread were being passed between hands. Awareness of the finite time we had in Nicaragua motivated us to tackle as much as we could in […]
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Lively León: The heart of Nicaragua

April 2015 After a day of tackling a few boat projects and unwinding from our overnight passage, Neil, Tim, and I were bound for another inland adventure! We left The Red Thread tied securely to a dock at Puesta del Sol Marina and caught a 6:30 am chicken bus from a deserted gas station on […]
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A vommer, a barracuda, y la bienvenida a Nicaragua

April 2015 I uncleated our bowline and heaved it aboard, unthreading it from Puerto Barillas’ mooring, to which The Red Thread had been tethered for 17 days. I looked aft over our dirty boat. Weeks without attention in the midst of the estuary, and she was grubby with a film of dirt speckles along her […]
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A troop of monkeys and a duo of Brits

April 2015 “Wake up! Hurry! We have to get moving if we’re going to get to see the monkeys before we have to head to Usulután to meet Tim and Emma!” It was a little after 7 am, and the day was calling. We’d barely rolled out of our v-berth, and we were already breaking […]
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Diving on Utila (Roatán’s cheap little cousin)

April 2015 After Neil’s bout with “baleada belly” had passed, we hit the road again. This time, we were bound for the coast—the Caribbean coast. With more than a week away, I began to experiences twinges of longing for Red Thread. At the same time, I relished the opportunity to gallivant around cities without checking […]
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Mayan ruins, colorful birds, and “baleada belly” in Honduras

April 2015 What springs to mind when you think of Honduras…? If Mayan ruins, colorful macaws, and epic scuba diving do not come to mind, I hope that after this post and the next, they will be among the first images evoked when you hear “Honduras” in the future.After a cramped shuttle ride, an uneventful […]
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Majesty behind the walls: All about Antigua, Guatemala

April 2015 Quakes that wrote and rewrote history Antigua’s history is fraught with tales of natural destruction and man’s perseverance to rebuild in the aftermath. Spanish conquistadores reached the region by the mid-1500s, subjugating an already broken Mayan empire. Despite a series of destructive mudslides and earthquakes that devastated the city, Antigua (then called Santiago) […]
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Celebrating Semana Santa in Antigua, Guatemala

April 2015 We’d been cruising outside US waters for nearly four months but had spent almost no time exploring inland. In mid-February we’d decided not to cross the Pacific this season, in large part because we knew we’d later regret shortchanging our time this part of the world. It was our adventure, and we could […]
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Toward the crown of an estuary: Puerto Barillas, El Salvador

March 2015 In preparation for an early morning passage, we caught the afternoon ebb and motored across the Golfo de Fonseca, crossing the saltwater border between Honduras and El Salvador. As we cruised the gap between Islas Conchguita and Meanguera, we decided to give The Red Thread a little polish. Music up, we were on […]
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