A dirty game of “Dodge the Bommie”

May 2016 “Seven, six, five, four…we’re aground!” Neil shouts from the helm, as he counts down in feet the rapidly diminishing water beneath our keel. Fortunately, the grounding was but a gentle kiss from a sandy seabank. Steadily we scooted off the shelf and back into deeper water, where we’d been trying very unsuccessfully to […]
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Paddling and pedaling as a cruiser quartet: Getting to know Raivavae

May 2016 Perhaps it was because our arrival came at the end of the most tranquil ocean passage we’d ever experienced, a far cry from the guttural relief we felt at the end of our passage to the Gambiers. Or perhaps Raivavae is just that beautiful. A more spectacular landfall can hardly be imagined. Raivavae […]
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Dare we depart port on Friday the 13th?

May 2016 Like the hem of a silk nightgown dancing delicately in the breeze, the foot of our spinnaker sashays in the twilight. A three-quarter golden moon dangles teasingly amid billowing clouds, cascading gilded ripples across the sea. The moon reappears beneath the nightgown’s hem just before the bow dips ever so gently, curtsying again […]
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VIDEO Ep. 19: French Polynesia~The Gambier Islands

April 2016 After the challenging 12-day sail from Rapa Nui (Easter Island) to the Gambier Islands, we savored our first taste of French Polynesia. The Gambiers are rarely visited by cruisers because they are off the more popular “Coconut Milk Run” route from the Americas, wherein landfall is typically made in the northern island chain […]
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Three sparrows, one family, and a dog with a phantom pregnancy

May 2016 One morning while we sipped our coffee off Rikitea, we watched a small boat sail into the anchorage. Three guys scampered about, setting their anchor and launching their rowing dinghy. French citizens are able to remain in French Polynesia indefinitely, so we assumed the crew were from France and had, at most, sailed […]
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Pearls…the queen of gems and the gem of queens

May 2016 We hoped the overcast morning sky would clear as the day warmed, but even if it didn’t, we would not be deterred by a bit of drear today! We had a field trip planned – we were off to visit the pearl farm we’d learned about during one of our long walks on […]
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Once upon a floating mountain

May 2016 Trees on this floating mountain (the literal meaning of “Mangareva”) have dug their roots into the very edges of the lagoon, where fertile soil covers volcanic stone and dark coral. Palm and banana fronds stand between bushy pamplemousse trees and waxy-leafed breadfruit branches that stretch beneath towering giants with long, splayed needles, the […]
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All work and no play…

April & May 2016 Mike and Gill on s/v Romano arrived a few hours ahead of us, and despite the exhausting challenges they dealt with en route, they invited us over for dinner. We mustered the energy to bathe for the first time in nearly two weeks, to pump up Miss Sassy, and to row […]
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Ep. 18 VIDEO: Mother Nature Takes the Helm

April 2016 Our passage from Rapa Nui (Easter Island) to the Gambiers Islands of French Polynesia was one of extremes. For nearly four days, we soared beneath our genoa alone and made over 6 knots average! On the flipside, we were pummeled by two back-to-back gales that made our last five days challenging and exhausting. […]
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Twelve days of trials and tribulations on a tempestuous sea

April 2016 Bad things come in threes After 17 tremendous days of hiking and exploring Rapa Nui, day 18 felt like a triple-decker crap sandwich. First, we awoke to a cacophonous grinding echoing through the hull. Our anchor chain was wrapped on a coral bommie on the seafloor, some 80 feet below. Like string between […]
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A tale of a gale at 25° south

April 2016 Today was the type of day we want our mothers to believe we do not experience out here. The Pacific morphed from its usually inviting blue to a fierce shade of gray, and gale-force winds gnashed at the boat for 10 hours. Sheets of rain lashed our faces and wind whipped the crests […]
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Ep. 17 VIDEO: Treks, Tours & Tattoos in Rapa Nui (Easter Island)

March & April 2016 Reaching Rapa Nui aboard The Red Thread was an immense accomplishment for us, and given that some boats reach the island only to find swell conditions untenable, we were truly fortunate to enjoy 18 incredible days there in April! Seas collide with the island after thousands of miles of wide open […]
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Rapa Nui: Moai, misfortune, and a mysterious cult

March & April 2016 After four days of exploring and tackling projects aboard Red Thread (and s/v Prince Diamond) in Rapa Nui’s northernmost anchorage, swell conditions improved, and our small cruising fleet sailed from Anakena to Hanga Roa to officially clear into the country. We buried our 45-pound delta anchor in the sandy seabed 90 […]
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Ep. 16 VIDEO: Over 2,000 sea miles from Galápagos to Rapa Nui

March 2016 Our passage to from the Galápagos to Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile, tried our perseverance like no other passage we’d experienced. The trade winds had more south in them than we’d anticipated, so for most of the passage we close-reached, sailing 55 to 75 degrees off the wind in 18 to 30 knots. […]
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Two weeks to windward: Our voyage to Rapa Nui

March 2016 If you tilt your chair at an angle of 35° and imagine living for [11 of 14] days with your kitchen dining room and bedroom tilted at that angle, and then suppose that it is all being bumped about like an iron-wheeled cart pulled over boulders, you will get a fair idea how […]
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Any Travelling Heart

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NEWS - THE LONG WAY

"The cure for anything is saltwater – sweat, tears, or the sea." –Isak Denesen

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"The cure for anything is saltwater – sweat, tears, or the sea." –Isak Denesen

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"The cure for anything is saltwater – sweat, tears, or the sea." –Isak Denesen

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"The cure for anything is saltwater – sweat, tears, or the sea." –Isak Denesen

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