Category Archives: Passages

Tahiti beckons

June 2016 What if I want to stay…? If you had told me I’d be sitting in the cockpit in French Polynesia, snug in a sweatshirt and fleece blanket and cradling a cup of tea, I’d scarcely have believed a word from your lips. But here I am in Raivavae: faded sorority hoodie, blanket, tea. […]
Read More »

VIDEO Ep. 20: French Polynesia~Red Thread & The Isle of Blue Sky

May & June 2016 Our passage from the Gambier Islands to Raivavae was seven days of the most peaceful ocean sailing imaginable. We always had just enough breeze to keep our sails filled and when the breeze picked up, we caught our first fish since our passage to the Galápagos! What a sight Raivavae was […]
Read More »

Dare we depart port on Friday the 13th?

May 2016 Like the hem of a silk nightgown dancing delicately in the breeze, the foot of our spinnaker sashays in the twilight. A three-quarter golden moon dangles teasingly amid billowing clouds, cascading gilded ripples across the sea. The moon reappears beneath the nightgown’s hem just before the bow dips ever so gently, curtsying again […]
Read More »

Twelve days of trials and tribulations on a tempestuous sea

April 2016 Bad things come in threes After 17 tremendous days of hiking and exploring Rapa Nui, day 18 felt like a triple-decker crap sandwich. First, we awoke to a cacophonous grinding echoing through the hull. Our anchor chain was wrapped on a coral bommie on the seafloor, some 80 feet below. Like string between […]
Read More »

A tale of a gale at 25° south

April 2016 Today was the type of day we want our mothers to believe we do not experience out here. The Pacific morphed from its usually inviting blue to a fierce shade of gray, and gale-force winds gnashed at the boat for 10 hours. Sheets of rain lashed our faces and wind whipped the crests […]
Read More »

Ep. 16 VIDEO: Over 2,000 sea miles from Galápagos to Rapa Nui

March 2016 Our passage to from the Galápagos to Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile, tried our perseverance like no other passage we’d experienced. The trade winds had more south in them than we’d anticipated, so for most of the passage we close-reached, sailing 55 to 75 degrees off the wind in 18 to 30 knots. […]
Read More »

Two weeks to windward: Our voyage to Rapa Nui

March 2016 If you tilt your chair at an angle of 35° and imagine living for [11 of 14] days with your kitchen dining room and bedroom tilted at that angle, and then suppose that it is all being bumped about like an iron-wheeled cart pulled over boulders, you will get a fair idea how […]
Read More »

Pollywogs no mas: Transequatorial passage to the Galápagos + Ep. 12 VIDEO

February 2016 For as much preparation as went into our passage to the Galápagos, it commenced almost spontaneously. After four days at lovely Isla Parida, we weighed anchor bound for Islas Secas, a triad of tiny islands with a reputation for stunningly clear water and tremendous snorkeling. At a quarter after 10 in the morning, […]
Read More »

A glimpse of our final weeks in Central America + Ep. 11 VIDEO

January & February 2016 Although we were able to upload blogs describing our final weeks in Costa Rica and Panama, WIFI has been limited during the last few months as we crossed the Pacific. This video simply had to wait. We’re excited to *finally* share a few of the highlights [and challenges] of our final […]
Read More »

Stocking the larder: Crew, booze, and 100+ tins in Golfito

January 2016 The Sarana Guide advises explicitly that Golfito should not entered in the dark. We weren’t interested in pushing our luck and were up before the sun. We departed Bahia Drake at dawn, hoping the light zephyr in the forecast would materialize and enable us to sail. We were also realistic that motoring would […]
Read More »

Back in the groove: Sailing and scuba in Central Costa Rica + Ep. 10 VIDEO

January 2016 The breeze awoke with the colors of sunrise, as we hoisted our sails at dawn on January 24th. I sipped my coffee and wrapped my arms around Neil, overcome with a sense gratitude to be sailing once more after so many months away from our sailing life. It was a balmy morning along […]
Read More »

Expect the unexpected: Our final passage and The Red Thread’s new marina

May 2015 On May 13th, we weighed anchor at 2:50 am, hoping to reach our final port of call in the mid-afternoon. Our exodus from Bahia Ballena greeted us with good winds. Our guests awoke. The sunrise was a wildly stunning kaleidoscope of oranges and reds and yellows that rivaled any dawn we’d logged in […]
Read More »

Rolling in-n-out of Gringolandia + an impromptu overnight passage

May 2015 A few hours after we arrived in Playa del Coco, we dinghied to the beach, survived the surf landing, and got to the business of clearing back into Costa Rica. This time around, we were not rookies. We knew what to expect, and we managed to go through the process relatively quickly; half […]
Read More »

From Nica to Tica: The Red Thread Returns to Costa Rica

April 2015 We untied our dock lines and set out from Marina Puesta del Sol in the early afternoon of April 28th. The day was hot, 92° Fahrenheit to be exact. Four-foot seas rolled long and steady from the west southwest as we exited the estuary. Fourteen knots of westerly breeze filled our sails, and […]
Read More »

A vommer, a barracuda, y la bienvenida a Nicaragua

April 2015 I uncleated our bowline and heaved it aboard, unthreading it from Puerto Barillas’ mooring, to which The Red Thread had been tethered for 17 days. I looked aft over our dirty boat. Weeks without attention in the midst of the estuary, and she was grubby with a film of dirt speckles along her […]
Read More »